CTaSC

The cost of thin-set mortar can vary tremendously depending on the type.  There are non-modified thin-sets that can be used on more porous tiles over concrete that sell from $5 to $10 per 50lbs.  The more expensive ones have more cement and polymers, and perform better.  Then there are latex or polymer modified thin-set mortars that can range from $10 to $25 per 50lbs.  The more expensive ones have significantly better bond strength and working properties such as non-sag.

Then to compound the complexity of answering your question the amount of square coverage you get out of a 50lb bag of thin-set will vary significantly.  An irregular stone or mexican paver that requires a thicker application of the thin-set might only get about 25 to 50 sf per 50lbs particularly if the substrate is also irregular requiring more thin-set.  A mosaic porcelain tile might get over 200 sf per 50lb bag of thin-set.

So the answer to your question is it depends on which type of tile you are using, what the condition of the substrate is, and what type of thin-set you are using.

You need to properly prepare it to make sure it is free of any structural cracks, clean, and plumb.  You can bond the tile directly to it or you can fasten metal lath and apply a scratch and brown coat of mortar. 

As far as what to use to bond the mosaic to the concrete base it depends.  You can use a latex or polymer modified thin-set mortar that is recommended for freeze thaw applications.  You can use an epoxy adhesive for tile and that would work since it doesn't absorb moisture and has great bond strength.

There are several steps necessary to make sure your tile deck will perform as intended.  First, you need to make sure it is structurally sound to be able to take the weight and that it will not cause too much deflection.  Make sure it is IRC compliant by having a structural engineer inspect it.

Next you need to determine how the water will drain off the deck.  Will you install a drain or will you have it run off the edge into a gutter?

Next you need to create a pre-slope substrate by applying a concrete bed with a slope to drain.  Then you properly apply a roofing membrane such as hot mop asphalt coating or apply a sheet waterproof membrane.  Then you should apply a mortar bed over the membrane or there are membranes that you can bond the tile directly to it if it is appropriate to eliminate the top mortar bed.  If you apply the mortar bed then apply a secondary waterproof membrane over it of the type that allows you to bond the tile directly to the membrane.  Be sure to do at least a 48 hour water test to make sure it doesn't leak.

You mention Permabase which is a cementitious backer board.  it is possible to use a backer board rather than a mortar bed, but it would be difficult to achieve an adequate slope on its surface.

Make sure you have movement joints (expansion joints) placed within the tile assembly every 8 to 12 feet.  Make sure you have perimeter movement joints filled with a proper ASTM C920 sealant (caulking).  Make sure the tile is installed achieving 95% full thin-set contact between the tile and its substrate.

If the concrete patio substrate has cracks then first you have to determine if they are a structural crack (has lippage indicating it has moved vertically) or a shrinkage crack (only moves horizontally within the same plane).   If they are structural cracks then they have to be professionally repaired with epoxy and dowels.  If they are shrinkage cracks then you can apply a crack isolation membrane over the whole slab for full protection or apply it only over the cracks so it is centered over the crack bridging it the width of 3 tiles you are using (e.g. 12x12 inch tile would require a 36" application of the membrane to bridge the shrinkage cracks).  Most crack isolation membranes are also waterproof membranes so you will also get the benefit of creating a moisture barrier to minimize efflorescence and other potential moisture problems.  Be sure to follow the membrane manufacturers' limitations and installation guidelines to be sure it is appropriate for the application and will perform as intended.  Good Luck.
 

There are some types of stone that would work well too.

The thickness of the concrete depends on the intended use and condition of the soil below it, but generally 4" thickness is ok for light traffic residential applications over a structurally sound landscape.

The general rule is to wait 28 days or curing before installing tile, but it depends on the recommendations of the installation products you will be using.

First using OSB is not recommended.  It is not a stable substrate when it gets wet and can lead to problems.  If it is properly protected from moisture then it could work as long as the structure is structurally sound and doesn't have too much deflection.  Plus the surface of the OSB should have been sloped towards where the water is to drain.

The backer board is suppose to be screwed every 8 inches.  The sheets should have been staggered to each other.  The joints of the sheets should have been gapped filled and taped.  The lack of proper fastening could lead to excessive movement and resultant damages.

Having the tile set with TEC Triple Flex adhesive that could also be a moisture membrane is good to add more protection.  The question is if there is an adequate slope to drain on the surface of the tile to a drain or to a gutter along the edge to allow for proper drainage.

Only time will tell if it was constructed well enough to last without problems.  Good luck.

Mastic can last many years under the right conditions if it is a good quality mastic.  You apparently used a mastic that was not non-sag.  Some mastics are designed to keep larger tiles from sliding down the wall during the installation.  Whether you used the type 2 mastic for prolong moisture exposure or not, you will have to look at the product data sheet or container label.

Since you used in on walls and the closest area to water is the tub surround, then as long as it is well attached to the wall and water is kept from it, it should be ok.  Mastic is water resistant to initial contact, but if subjected to prolong exposure it can deteriorate depending on the type. 

Make sure the transition joints within the tile (inside wall joints) and where it butts into the tub are filled with a caulking rated as meeting ASTM C920 which is a pure silicone or urethane sealant, and not a latex or acrylic caulk.  Good luck.
 

Ceramic Tile, which porcelain tile is a type of ceramic tile, has maximum lippage of 1/32" to 1/16" plus the amount of allowable warpage in that type of tile, which then depends on the width of the grout joint and the type of the tile.  There are some types of tile that are so irregular that it doesn't apply to them. 

Lippage can be affected by a substrate not being properly prepared so it is flat.  It can also be perceived as excessive lippage if seen in the type of lighting conditions that accentuate lippage due to shadows. 

A well gauged tile manufactured within standards on a properly prepared substrate should not have lippage that can easily be felt.  This is a complex condition that may require a well experienced investigator as from our company to be able to properly evaluate the situation.  Good Luck.
 

I don't know if it will work or not, but you could try soaking the stones in water to see if they will straighten out.  In Europe the installers soak their moisture sensitive stones in water prior to setting so the stone is fully saturated and will expand evenly.  Then they install the tiles damp, but not with a wet surface, over the concrete substrate.  Then once the thin-set cures it restrains the tile from moving as it dries, as long as it is being bonded to a concrete surface and not an elastomeric membrane that will not fully restrain the tile from moving.

If it is necessary to fasten that way, then I would install the table first then cut the tiles around the legs.  Or if the tile is already there then use a hole saw to cut out a section. where the legs go.  Then use a silicone sealant to caulk around the 1/8" wide gap to allow for movement.

If it isn't necessary to fasten the legs through the floor then you could drill holes through the tile and insert an anchor shield sleeve and screw into it.  Or if you want to leave the tile undamaged, in case the table is removed later, then use a structural (pure) silicone sealant meeting ASTM C920 and bond the legs of the table to the tile floor.  Make sure both surfaces are cleaned properly before applying the silicone.  Silicone bonds tenaciously, allows for some movement, and is relatively easy to remove or repair if necessary. Good Luck.
 

I think your question is whether or not there are grouts and adhesives suitable for being submerged in water as in the case of a bird bath.

Many cementitious dry set thin-set mortars and grouts are suitable for use under water.  You do need to let them cure for at least 14 days before you submerge them.  There are epoxy adhesives and grouts that might not require as long of curing.  When you buy the thin-set dry set mortar make sure it is recommended for that use.  The latex or polymer modified versions will normally provide better performance.  Make sure the substrate to which you are bonding the tile to is properly prepared.  Good luck.
 

First the structure needs to be structurally sound and not have any deflection more than L/360 for ceramic tile aor L/720 for stone.

Next the two part drains with weep holes need to be installed, so the weep holes will be located at the waterproof membrane level.  Or you can drain off the side of the deck into a gutter system.

If possible I would paint the interior plywood with a liquid applied breathable waterproof membrane like the Red Guard from one of the tile installation product manufacturers you can find on our website.  

Apply the pre-sloped concrete so there is a 1/4" per foot slope to drain.  I would put a hotmop roofing application over the concrete for your primary waterproof membrane.  You can use a sheet membrane liner like the pond liner, but there may be less expensive shower pan liners you can use too.  No penetrations into membrane and properly weld all seams.

Unless you have perimeter drains with a uniform slope the cement backer board won't accommodate the slope of the deck.  It would be better to install a 1-1/4" thick dry-packed wire reinforced mortar bed.  Be sure to protect the weep holes with gravel so they don't get plugged with mortar. I would apply the liquid applied waterproof membrane over the mortar bed as a secondary membrane.

Be sure to achieve full thin-set contact and no voids under tile.

Be sure to install movement joints at the perimeter of the tile work, transitions and every 8 to 12 feet using an ASTM C920 sealant such as a structural silicone or a urethane.

Good luck!
 

The substrate must be suitable and sound for the application.  The epoxy coating has to be tenaciously attached to the substrate because if it debones so does the tile.  The floor must be flat or sloped for the intended use or any inconsistencies will be telegraphed through the tile. 

If you choose to try to bond the tile to the paint, then you need determine what type of paint it is.  An epoxy based paint requires an epoxy adhesive to bond to it.  A latex based thin-set adhesive should be used over the latex based paint.  Only use epoxy and latex thin-set products that state they can be used for bonding tile to paint.  The painted surface has to be cleaned properly to ensure an adequate bond.  If the paint is not well attached then as the thin-set adhesive dries and shrinks, it might pull the paint loose.  Beware!!!!  Gook Luck!
 

It would be better to attach the tile to a cementitious backer board or other type of tile backer board suitable for exterior or interior wet areas such as a shower. 

You indicated that you are handmaking the sign with a clay slab roller to form your tiles.  If this sign is for exterior use you want to be sure the clay is dense enough to be freeze thaw stable.  Rule-of-thumb, 3% and less absorption in ceramic tile is considered freeze thaw stable, although it has to be verified by performing a ASTM freeze thaw test.

If you use the exterior glue plywood for an interior sign, then use a polymer modified dry set thin-set cementitious mortar that meets ANSI A118.11 designed for exterior glue plywood.

For the cementitious backer board you should use a polymer modified dry set thin-set cementitious mortar that meets ANSI A118.4. 

Good Luck with your sign,

ANSI doesn't have any compressive strength standards for mortar beds.  A118.7 modified grout has a 3,000 psi compressive strength. 

I'm not sure of exactly what the compressive strength would be for a typical mortar.  I would guess that a regular mortar bed should get over 2,000 psi if compressed correctly depending on the cement to sand to water ratio.

The redimix concrete trucks can create a design mix at a certain value by using more cement and less water to reach higher strengths.

There are several key factors in achieving a high compressive strength.  Higher cement content adds more strength but don't go higher than a 1:3 mix of cement to sand.  The less water you use will achieve a higher strength down to a 25% moisture content, which wouldn't be a workable mix.  That is why a properly mixed dry pack mortar bed will give you more strength, which is the type referred to in ANSI as implied by requiring tamping the mortar bed to compress it.   I think the most important part is properly compressing the dry back mortar to achieve high compressive strength. 

A large project had a problem with this because the installers where not compacting the mortar.  They were simply dropping the stones on the inconsistent volume of mortar and not fully beating in the stones.  They were using a 5,000 psi mortar, but because they didn't fully compress the mortar bed they were getting 1200 psi values from samples taken from the job.

What I normally do on our jobs is either have the installers pre-float and make sure the dry pack is well compressed, or when installing individual large format tiles one at a time wet set, we have the installer dry beat the tile into the fresh dry pack mortar to compress it and make sure it is in full contact.  Once the mortar is fully compressed and at the right height to adjacent tiles then butter the backs of the tiles and beat the tiles in.  This method gives a very dense and strong mortar bed.

Hope that helps.

First keep in mind that expansion joints (movement joints) should be placed in the floor around all perimeters, transition of planes, every 24 feet in the floor areas in both directions, and continued up from any existing joints in the slab.

Second keep in mind that the floor can not exceed a deflection of L/360 for ceramic tile and :/720 for natural stone.

I would treat the 3 areas as three separate installations separated by full movement joints down to the sub-floor.  You can build up each floor to be level with each other or you can step down or up.  The ideal system is a full wire reinforced mortar bed that gives you best system and most flexibility other than if there are height limitations.  Next best is to apply a cementitious backer unit, an uncoupling system or self-leveling underlayment to flatten the surfaces and give a good surface to bond to.

Movement joints should continue up from slab joints and be filled with a backer-rod and an appropriate sealant with a shore hardness of 35 or greater.

Good Luck!

1.  Marble Institute of American standards say your floor can have no more deflection than L/720.  You need to make sure your structural engineer verifies your floor meets that requirement.

2.  It sounds like you intend to avoid using a mortar bed installation.  You must realize that any other method will not allow you to fully compensate for the irregularities of the floor and achieve a completely flat or sloped surface that will lead to other tradeoffs in the finish surface.

3.  You could apply an anti-fracture membrane but that gives you no additional structural integrity nor will it compensate for too much deflection.  The Schluter Ditra Mat is more than just an anti-fracture membrane; it also provides a cementitious underlayment.  If you use that product I suggest you contact Schluter and ask what type of exterior grade plywood they recommend you use over your existing subfloor.  You might be able to use a thinner sheet of plywood depending on spacing of your joists.

Good Luck!

Assuming you want to do a similar installation as the old installation (always best to do a full mortar bed installation), I would remove the existing wood top, and then start by placing a 15 lb building paper down first with 3/4" exterior grade plywood on top, assuming the underneath and sides are protected from coming into direct contact with moisture.  Then use the appropriate multipurpose thin-set and screws for attaching the new cement backerboard (CBB) to the wood.  Then waterproof the CBB and edges of the wood with one of the appropriate liquid applied or trowel applied waterproof membranes meeting ANSI A118.10 for ceramic tile.  Then thin-set your tile directly to the waterproof membrane, and grout.

Good Luck!

The substrate material has to be structurally stable and can't have any deflection more than L/360, so it has to be sturdy.

There are limitations for wet areas (showers, pools, etc.) and exterior areas. You can bond tile to particle board as long as it never gets exposed to moisture and remains dry and stable. You can't use drywall exterior.

There can me thermo expansion issues if the substrate thermo expansion differs substantially from the ceramic tile, particular for exterior areas or areas around fireplaces, barbeques, and etc, or in extreme climatic conditions.  There needs to be movement joints designed into the installation.

You have to use the appropriate adhesive with each substrate. For instance, you should use 100% silicon or epoxy over metal or glass. Of course there can not be any contaminates on the substrates and they need to be suitable for adhesion.

It is always best to adhere ceramic tile to a structurally sound and properly prepared concrete substrate.

In summary, consider the application to determine which substrates are suitable, then find out which adhesive is suitable to bond the ceramic tile to the type of material, and make sure the substrate is sturdy and properly prepared for adhesion.

Good Luck!

The adhesive you use to attach the bullnose to the concrete surface is the same that you would use to attach the regular filed ceramic tile, which is normally a modified thin-set adhesive, but you can use epoxy for a stronger attachment. Make sure that your transitional joints are filled with a 100% silicone or a urethane sealant rather than with cement grout to all movement from one plane to the other, without causing cracking. Good Luck!

The sealers that are specifically designed for ceramic tile and stone are normally provided in two categories. One is a breathable penetrating sealer that tends to not change the appearance of the tile and the other is a non-breathable surface sealer that tends to give you a glossy look.

The surface sealers are non-breathable and if moisture gets trapped in the tile under the sealer it could cause a cloudy discoloring. Some of the surface sealers tend to show wear patterns. The penetrating sealers allow moisture in a vapor stage to pass through. They do have some color enhancing versions that will give you somewhat of a glossy look.

The sealers you are referencing are normally used to seal other types of products, and they would have to be qualified to see if they are suitable or not for a ceramic tile application. Make sure they are recommended for food preparation areas.

After the slab has cured for at least 28 days (with good ventilation) then you can start your ceramic tile or stone installation.  It is recommended that you install a waterproof membrane over the slab and then install the tile on top of it, if you are not going to install a mortar bed on top of the slab first.  If you are going to install a wire reinforced mortar bed over the slab, a better and more expensive way to go, then a 15 lb roofing felt or 4 mil polyethylene film should be placed on the slab first as a cleavage membrane and for moisture protection.

The sealers that are specifically designed for ceramic tile and stone are normally provided in two categories. One is a breathable penetrating sealer that tends to not change the appearance of the tile and the other is a non-breathable surface sealer that tends to give you a glossy look.

The surface sealers are non-breathable and if moisture gets trapped in the tile under the sealer it could cause a cloudy discoloring. Some of the surface sealers tend to show wear patterns. The penetrating sealers allow moisture in a vapor stage to pass through. They do have some color enhancing versions that will give you somewhat of a glossy look.

The sealers you are referencing are normally used to seal other types of products, and they would have to be qualified to see if they are suitable or not for a ceramic tile application. Make sure they are recommended for food preparation areas.

Good Luck!

2. You can add in an additional liner or accent that is 1/2" wide.

3. You can turn the tile at an angle and do like a herring bone pattern.

4. You can lay out the tile so there is an equal size and symmetrical cut at the top and bottom that match.

5. You could put a molding at the ceiling that will cover and overlap the 1/2" gap.

6. You could put a 1/2" sheet of cement backerboard on the ceiling and then tile over it.

Hope these ideas help some.     Good Luck!

Of course you never install over plywood on an exterior application or in any type of a wet area.

The main problem is this: if wood gets wet it expands and warps, which will cause tile failure.  Concrete is the best surface with which to bond ceramic tile or stone.  If you can't do the best mortar bed method then the next best thing to do is install over a cement backer board.  If all else fails, then bond to wood, but make sure you do it properly.

Some will install the stone first and let it fully set up, and then come back with a Makita grinder with a diamond 4" blade on it and cut it along the template.  Have to make sure it is well bonded before you start cutting the stone or you can vibrate it loose.

Either way if you have an exposed edge you need to polish it to make sure it looks acceptable.

For a perfect job you can go to a stone fabricator who has a waterjet and cut it in the shop, if you provide them shop drawings or a template.  Remember garbage in = garbage out, so measure twice and cut once.  The fabricator could then polish the edges in the shop to get the best affect.

Of course, nothing like having the experience of doing it before to avoid the learning curve.

Good Luck!

a. This design or assembly can be found in the Tile Council of North Americas (TCNA)as the C513-07 detail, Wood Base – Backer Board
b. Make sure the cabinet and base is properly secured.  the wood substrate should be a  23/32 inch exterior glue plywood base and the base surface should be flat and level prior to installing the backer board
c. Follow the backer board manufactures installation instructions for kitchen countertops.
d. We would recommend applying an ANSI A118.10 liquid applied thin load bearing waterproofing membrane to the entire surface of the backer board, flashed or coved 3 inches up the back splash and all exposed edges of the plywood substrate and backer board. This will help protect from water damage and will help minimize minor stress cracking.
e. Use an ANSI A118.4 latex modified thinset to install the tile. Most manufactures of backer board and waterproofing member require this type of adhesive.
f. Let installed cure as per adhesive manufacture recommendation.
g. Properly apply and wash grout. Remove any grout in your movement or expansion joints and let grout cure.
h. Design perimeter or surface change of plane movement joints with the appropriate ASTM C920 sealant.

Typically 1/8th inch wide grout is the changing point for switching from a non-sanded cement grout (rule of thumb: 1/8th inch or less wide joint) to a sanded cement grout (rule of thumb 1/8th inch or wider grout joint. I would recommend a sanded cement grout, as long as it does not scratch your tile or stone. The sanded cement grout is more durable and would be less prone to having shrinkage cracks. If you want a grout that you do not have to seal and are less prone to staining and easy to clean, try a ANSI A 118.3 Chemical Resistant, Water Cleanable Epoxy Grout. It cost a little more and is more difficult to install, but can be well worth the investment.

The wall should not significantly move and the grout joints will not compensate for walls that move.

Good Luck!

Good Luck!

If the sink specifications were clearly communicated as being flush mounted then it should have been installed that way.

There is no need to use a backer board for this type of application.  It is necessary that the installer understands and has experience at installing mortar beds properly.  There are many variables to consider to determine what type of mortar bed and which method to use.  Most important is to understand the condition of the slab and to properly prepare it for the tile application. 

To get some guidelines on how the mortar bed and tile should be installed go to our website under FAQ Ceramic Tile and Stone Installations and go to question/answer #45 to download an installation guideline.

In theory it shouldn't matter if you grout or not (if you like that look), but from experience we have found that when there are flaws in the shower assembly the grout can help minimize the problems because it is creating some degree of a barrier, even though it may be a  porous cement grout, to the tile backing. 

Also an open grout joint is likely to collect dust and other debris and would tend to develop microbial growth (mold), which isn't good.

So grout does provide support of the tile edge,  helps to keep water from reaching the substrate face, and can minimize microbial growth.

Good Luck!

You should be using an ASTM C920 sealant such as a silicone or urethane type which perform substantially better.  Some are more heat and weather resistant than others.  Check with the sealant manufacture to determine which product you should use. Building Supply stores normally stock this type of material of the home centers stock the silicone type.  If you want to paint the sealant and you use silicone be sure to get the paintable type because most silicones can't be painted.  Some of the manufacturers of these types of sealants are Dow Corning, GE, Degussa, Sika, Laticrete Lataseal, and others. 

Good Luck!

Generally the transition between the tub and tile on the wall is either wrongly filled with cementitious grout or the installer wrongly fills (caulks) it with a latex sealant sometimes referred to as a caulking.   The latex sealants don't perform well, don't have warranties, and do not last long.

Our industry standards requires that an ASTM C920 sealant be used which is either a 100% silicone (not Siliconized latex) or a urethane sealant; there are other types.  These types of sealants will last for years and have warranties. 

Our industry standards says to use a polyethylene backer rod to fill up excess space in the joint.  The backer rod should be larger than the joint and be compressed into it.  The backer rod will fill up the excess space plus you can control how thick the sealant will be on top of the backer rod filling the joint.  The sealant cannot be applied too thick or too thin for it to perform correctly.  Follow the sealant manufacturer's instructions, but normally it should be at least 1/8" thick and not thicker than 1/2".  Normally the manufacturer requires the use of a primer prior to apply the sealant.

Based on your description that when the tub is full of water the joint is less than 1/4" wide, I would put in the 1/4" backer rod with the tub full of water, and apply the sealant without water in the tub. This is based on the joint being deep enough so you can apply between a 1/8" to 1/4" thick sealant on top if allowed by the sealant manufacturer. If 1/4" backer rod is too thick then use a smaller one; you can get it as thin as 1/8".  If 1/8" backer rod is too thick then don't use a backer rod.

Good Luck!

The TCNA handbook does not show an exterior deck over wood framing, but only over a concrete slab.  There are notes in the TCNA handbook that says with appropriate precautions you can install over a wood substrate for exterior applications that are not subject to freeze thaw conditions by using either a wire reinforced mortar bed per TCNA F141 or with cementitious backer board (CBU) per TCNA F144.

Keep in mind that only exterior grade plywood is recommended for the subfloor and the bottom of the plywood deck needs to be covered so it isn't subject to getting damp.  If the plywood gets wet it will expand and warp. 

The substrate can not have excessive deflection and must be in conformance with IRC and other applicable building codes.  Deflection can not exceed 1/360 of the span when measured under a 300 lb concentrated load.

You need to slope the deck to a drain or to the edge of the deck into a drainage trough so the water can escape and not cause staining at the edges.  There needs to be a waterproof membrane over the sloped surface with a slope to drain of 1/4" per foot within the membrane surface. 

I'm not sure how you are going to create your slope with CBU, but you could try to apply a patch material that is designed to be applied at 1" thick and down to a feather edge. It would be better to put a roofing membrane on the wood subfloor and then apply a wire reinforced mortar bed sloped to drain and then apply another waterproof membrane on its surface.

The shower has to be properly waterproofed first.  The shower pan has to be constructed correctly to allow for proper slope and waterproofing.  The walls have to have moisture barrier behind the backer board.  The transition areas have to be caulked with a proper sealant including the transition from the backerboard to the drywall.  The drywall should be water resistant green board or better e.g. Denshield.

We do provide quality assurance and quality control services for tile and stone installations for architects and others.  If you want to ensure a successful installation, then you need to determine the suitability of the tile for the application and installation method.  Then you need specific installation guidelines and a quality control plan to be implemented by a third party.  For more

You don't have to have a subtop (plywood base) for a vanity top that is 2 cm or thicker unless the stone is considered fragile (marble class C or less) and is not supported over a long span.  If you do have a subtop then you need to have an apron edge to cover the subtop edge.

The sink can be undermount using an appropriate sealant only if the stone is not fragile and the sink not too heavy.  I prefer to see mechanical attachments.   Good Luck!

It is important that the porch does not have excessive deflection and is structural sound.  The porch also must be weather proof in terms of the underside not being subjected to moisture.  Good Luck!

Fill (caulk) that 1/4" joint with a 100% silicone or a urethane sealant that meets ASTM C920.  I would recommend putting a tile base or wood base on top of this to cover the joint, so it looks better.

If the tile does not come with a base trim then cut 3" to 4" off the end of a tile with the uncut tile edge up.  Some edges will have a glaze over-spray and look better so use those.

I would also undercut at the door jams so the tile slides under the jam rather than try to cut around the door jam.  Be sure to leave a gap between the tile edge and back edge under the door jam.

It is possible and legitimate to bond tile to an exterior grade plywood subfloor as long as it is structurally sound, does not have any deflection greater than L/360 for ceramic tile or L/720 for stone tile.  The wood can not be subjected to any moisture.  You need to use an epoxy adhesive or an EGP polymer modified or latex modified thin-set that meets ANSI A118.11 to bond the tile to the exterior grade plywood.

It would be better to apply a moisture barrier and cementitious backer board to the stairs first, but it still needs to meet the deflection requirements.

Good Luck!

There are some cork and other sound control mats that are as thin as 1/2 inch that do claim that they can achieve the IIC of 50 and at 56 STC over an 8 inch thick suspended concrete slab.

You should use a cementitious backer board for attaching the clay figures.  You can buy them at Home Depot or Lowe's or any tile store.  The common size is 3' x 5', but there are larger sizes, and it comes in 1/4" thin or 1/2" thick.

Normally a thin-set mortar is used to bond the clay tiles to the cementitious board.  If the clay tiles are porcelain then you need to use an ANSI A118.4 modified thin-set mortar that provides better bonding for the impervious porcelain clay. 

Good Luck!

The concern on whether your existing floor is sturdy enough to hold the weight of stone is an issue of whether the floor will have excessive deflection or not when subjected to a 300 lb concentrated live load per the standards.

That means once the floor is installed and you have people or objects going over it will it deflect too much.  The marble standard over a wood subfloor as you have is 1/720, which means that the floor can not deflect more than 0.0167 of an inch up and 0.0167 of an inch down within a 24 inch span.

Your floor has joists and depending on the type of joists, the spacing of the joists, what type of subfloor you have on top of the joists, and type of a tile installation assembly you install on top of it will determine if your floor is constructed correctly.

You need to hire a structural engineer to determine whether your floor is sturdy enough or not.  If not, then the structural engineer can prescribe how to further brace it to be sturdy enough.

Rule of thumb is that if you put a full glass of water on a table on the wood subfloor and you jump up and down you shouldn’t feel a bounce and the water should not spill.

It is best to install the tile over a cement base or a cementitious backer board following TCNA Tile Installation guidelines.  Good Luck!

It is best to use electrical heating to maintain the floor surface temperatures and ambient air temperatures that are required by the manufacturer of the installation products.  The manufacturers do provide data sheets on the use of each of their products, which should be read and followed.

There are products that will allow you to bond ceramic tile to exterior grade plywood, but it is not considered the best substrate to bond to.  It would be better to use a cementitious backer board.

Make sure the stairs are sturdy.  Thin-set and screw in a cement backer board (CBB) onto the wood risers.  Thin-set your tile onto the cement backer board using an appropriate multi-purpose polymer or latex modified thin-set for the tile you are using.  Leave a 1/4" gap along the perimeter of the tile to any restraining surface and caulk it with a silicone or urethane sealant that meets ASTM C920.  Grout your tile with a polymer or latex modified grout.

Good Luck!

It is a good sign that the thin-set adhesive from the old ceramic tile has bonded well to the concrete slab.  To achieve a nice flat surface for the travertine tile then the substrate needs to be relatively flat and consistent.  You can compensate for some irregularities in the concrete slab with the thin-set mortar, but it can be a problem if you use too much thin-set.  Too much thin-set is more expensive, it can cause excessive shrinkage that can lead to other problems, and it is more difficult to achieve an over all flat travertine surface.

I would recommend trying to remove as much of the thin-set as possible and then use an appropriate modified thin-set to skim over the rough surfaces to smooth it out and to achieve a flat surface.     Good Luck!

If the cracks are structural cracks (they move vertically) then the concrete slab is defective and needs to be properly repaired as determined by a structural engineer.

It would be best to take a cementitious backer board and glue and screw if over the Formica, per the backer board's instructions, and then install the marble on to the backer board with a modified thin-set that meets ANSI A118.4.  Good Luck!

Normally ceramic tile is tenaciously attached and requires a lot of effort to remove.  It is likely that the removal of the ceramic tile will also pull off the substrate to which it is attached to some degree.

In theory you could attach the wood paneling to the ceramic tile with some sort of an adhesive.  You need to check with the manufacture of the wood paneling to determine if it is recommended and how best to approach it. 

Good Luck!

First, you have to be sure that the tile is well attached and structurally sound to support the added layer.

Stucco does not have much cement in it and is fairly weak, so you can not apply it directly to the ceramic tile.

The ceramic tile needs to be scarified and a skim coat of a latex/polymer modified thin-set would then need to be applied.  Then you can apply a stucco finish over the thin-set.  Then you can paint it if you wish.

In stead of the stucco, you can thin-set new ceramic tile or stone to the existing tile after properly preparing the tile as described above.  Good Luck!

Concrete is always the best surface to attach tile.

Never use mastic on exterior applications because it isn't a long lasting type of adhesive.

Climatic conditions are important.  Your tile needs to be a freeze thaw stable with a water absorption rate of less than 3% or it can be damaged from the freezing.  You need to use a quality type of sealant at the transition joints such as an exterior grade silicone sealant.  Grout can be cementitious if the rest of the system works well.  There are impervious epoxy grouts you can use.  I would also recommend using a waterproof membrane over the concrete substrate before you attach the tile.

You have to make sure that the thin-set adhesive will bond the Formica to the substrate.  Some modified thin-sets will bond to some vinyl but you have to see if it will bond to Formica.

If you are using the Formica to build it up like only a ¼”, then you can use a medium bed thin-set to do that during the installation.  That is how it is normally done.  If you have to go thicker you can use cement backer board to thin-set to the slab where the hole is left after installing the stone, and then thin-set the glass to it.  Or if you do it like some of the old pros you can make a box-screed.  You key in the thin-set to the glass and then put it into a boxed frame so the top of the box is how thick you want the tile to end up, and then apply mortar on top of that and screed it off flat.  Then thin-set that piece to the substrate.

If the cracks are structural (vertical movement) you have to do some major repairs.  If the cracks are simply shrinkage cracks then you can apply a crack isolation sheet over it and then install the tile to it.

1. Ask the larger ceramic tile supply companies in your area for names of quality installers who do custom work.  Expect to pay more for a quality installer.
2. Ask the installer for pictures and referrals to substantiate he is a detailed and quality minded installer, and is responsible.
3. Select a single source installation product system from a major manufacturer of installation products and tell the installer he has to use it and meet their requirements for the installation warranty.  The major companies offer special labor and material warranties if you use their complete system with their better quality products.
4. Hire a quality control inspector to make sure it is installed correctly.

Good Luck!